Every morning restaurants and local people buy these sea snails on a market from fishermen. The market is close to the harbour but far enough so that you wouldn’t meet tourists there. We were quite conspicuous among the locals, so it was hard for me to take photos. It took me a while
to find a salesman who wouldn’t be annoyed by my camera. If I had a place to cook a conch, I would love to try it and would by one. That could have helped me not to disturb locals. In our hotel my idea wouldn’t be understood, though. Hence, I had to keep the role of a curious tourist.

Finally a guy who looked like Bob Marley showed me live how to get a conch out of his shell. He was selling some conchs to one local housewife then. His colleague broke the hard shell apart with a well targeted hit of a big carpenter hammer and handed it to Bob. Bob took a rusty knife, stuck it through the opening and skillfully cut something through. Then he took the snail out through a big opening. I should call it door, because the snail was coming out and in through it. I didn’t expect such a massive mass of meat. It could weight over half a kilo. The whole snail looks like a strange muscular tentacle. Bob cut off something that could have been inner organs and handed the muscle to the buyer. This act preceded a debate that resembled the way I buy melons home. The result was that the lady took five conchs which gave me enough time and space for photographing. Meanwhile I asked where I should go if I wanted to try the best conch. It depended on whether I wanted a cheaper or a more expensive option. The cheaper one was „Conch Fritters“ in town and the other one was „Poop Deck“ at Sandyport.

In half an hour we were sitting in “Conch Fritters” and eating conch salad and fried conch a la chicken McNuggets and drinking local beer Kalik. I was pondering over this meal. Its taste wasn’t special, slightly exotic. I wasn’t surprised by the price of conchs on the market. They were cheap. Unfortunately. I am neither an economist nor a fisherman, but maybe if they were more expensive there wouldn’t be such a high demand for them, they would be caught less and their extinction would decrease. On the other hand, it is hard to say, because tourists would want to try them regardless. After I saved the planet in my thoughts I remembered I should reserve a table in “The Poop Deck” for dinner. I looked up the number and did so. Great, they had a table for us available.

Between lunch and dinner we managed to bath on one remote beach, rest for an hour, shower and have an espresso. While drinking coffee I chatted with the bartender and asked her where I should go for a good meal. “If you like romance and good food you should go to The Poop Deck at Sandyport!” she replied. Meanwhile I found out than there were two restaurants in Nassau called “The Poop Deck”. One is at Eastbay and the other one is at Sandyport. I was interested why both ladies recommended us the one at Sandyport. “They cook well in both of them but the one at Sandyport is very romantic. Me and my husband go there to celebrate our anniversary” was the answer. Two different and independent recommendations rose my expectations.

The history of these two restaurants dates back to 1972, when the first one on Eastbay was opened. The Poop Deck offers fresh fish and seafood in Bahamian style and also wine, beer or cold cocktails. While entering the restaurant on Sandyport we walked through a bar where a large wooden counter dominates. People sitting at the bar were drinking their drinks and watching sport program. Pleasant atmosphere governed the restaurant. Then we walked by a counter with fresh fish on ice. “They aren’t frozen, but freshly caught” explained the waiter. The restaurant is furnished very simply. The floor is paved, tables and chairs are plastic. Tables are covered with light pink and light green table clothes. The whole impression is cheap but honest and pleasant. However, our table was outside on the beach. You can reserve a table directly on the beach if the weather is nice and if you do so in advance. The table was literally directly on the beach. There was no floor, patio or terrace. We had sand under our feet and waves were breaking almost by our feet. There was only one table outside, so that the rareness was perceived. I appreciated that very much. There was a night lamp on a little table. Chairs were sinking into the sand. The waiter introduced himself with his first name and assured us to do maximum for our satisfaction. I had no doubts about that.

I ordered a glass of Torrontes from Argentina. After my afternoon contemplation I didn’t choose a conch from the menu. It was a small step for conchs but a big one for me. The menu was set of classical combinations. Out of the fresh seafood we chose shrimps coated in coconut dough with vegetable salad and sweet chilli sauce, and Ahi tuna covered in blend of spices with seaweed, slices of mango, wasabi, ginger and soya sauce. Shrimps were roasted excellently and tasted well. Unfortunately the cook didn’t put too much effort into the salad. I have to say that my 15-year old nice would beat him. Sweet chilli sauce was served in plastic container. That outraged me a bit. I didn’t understand what was the goal of that act. Didn’t they have little bowls? I didn’t believe that. Maybe they didn’t want to wash too many dishes. They definitely have a dishwasher. Maybe they just wanted to lighten it up. I am afraid, that was not the right way. If I was in some fast food I would be ok with that. But in that place I was surprised. Unfortunately, I found the same container on the plate with tuna, as well. I tried to concentrate on food. Tuna was delicious, seaweed salad was fresh and juicy, mango was sweet.

If my friend Robo, who makes the best amateur sushi I ever ate, was here, he would crow. I was enjoying my meal and watching the great view. Sun was setting, it was amazing.The main course came after sunset, but we didn’t mind it at all. In the light of nigh lamp we ate seafood Paella. I didn’t expect paella on Bahamas but the waiter convinced us to try it. One of the cooks was Spanish and could cook it great. We followed his advice and then judged. Rice was cooked just right, shrimps and mussels were juicy and in abundance. Sweet red pepper tasted exactly like from a cookbook. Once I ate similar paella in Alhambra. We made a good choice.

After our meal we were watching the moon, which was above our heads. The sea was calm, but I could see clouds in the distance and the air was getting cooler. In that frame of mind I could get over the flaws. It is an ideal place for enjoying Bahamian atmosphere.

My rating:

The author does not visit rated restaurants at the invitation, but chooses them himself. Impressions and evaluation are based on single one visit. All expenses are covered by the author.

Text and photos: Dodi Fodor